KNOWN AS ZONGZI (粽子) in Mandarin, Chang—as the glutinous rice dumplings wrapped in leaves are called in Hokkien—differs from other Chinese dumplings such as Jiaoxi, Baoxi and Tang Yuan.[1] Chang’s fascinating history dates back at least 2,000 years, when it was traditionally prepared for the Dragon Boat (Duanwu) Festival, on the fifth day of the fifth month of the lunar calendar. They often come leaf-wrapped in various shapes—tetrahedrons, elongated cylinders or cones—with significant variations between China’s northern and southern provinces. In the north, fillings are traditionally sweet and meat is seldom used, while those in the south are savoury. In fact, China is leading an effort to establish an international standard through the Codex Alimentarius Commission.[2] Standardisation does not mean that there should only be one type of Chang, however. Indeed, in Malaysia and Singapore, and to a certain extent other parts of Southeast Asia, we enjoy many Hokkien, Teochew, Cantonese, Hainanese and Hakka variations, now commercially available throughout the year.
DIFFERENT FACES FROM MESOAMERICA TO ASIA
Chang has long served as portable nourishment for scholars, warriors, hunters and travellers. But similar foods are found all over the world, even in the Aztec and Maya civilisations. The reason why Zongzi is often referred to as “Chinese tamales” in the US is because of their similarity to tamales, which are rooted in Mesoamerican civilizations (and which, in fact, predate Zongzi). Pre-Columbian tamales were made from nixtamalised[3] corn, and filled with meat, beans, chillies and fruits. Spanish colonists later introduced pork, beef and dairy products into the filling for increased variety. In fact, additives like slake lime and alkaline water were used to prepare both Chang and tamales. Despite their distinct origins and ingredients, they appear designed for durability and nutrition: useful when journeys were long, wars were frequent and festivities demanded refreshment.
Turning to Zongzi’s variations, the Hokkien braised pork Bak Chang is considered the most globalised, since there is a large Hokkien diaspora ranging from Southeast Asia to North America. But there are many variations within China itself. Jiaxing Chang, from the south-eastern Chinese province of Zhejiang, is most sought-after during the Dragon Boat Festival.[4] It is a type of southern Chang, containing savoury fillings such as marinated meat, sometimes also filled with sweet bean paste, lotus seed, longan or peanut. The same province’s Hangzhou variation has “male” and “female” Chang with different wrappings and fillings, associated with blind-date rituals. Meanwhile, Xi’an Chang, which has the longest history, is served chilled with osmanthus syrup. “Pil-low Zongzi” from Nanning are famous for their large size and rich fillings, often weighing around 1kg!
