The Making of the Malay Cuisine

The Making of the Malay Cuisine
Spread at a Jawi Peranakan restaurant. From L to R: Nasi tomato, fish curry, prawn and vegetable fritters with peanut sauce, nasi lemuni and beef rendang.

“Rather than bitter medicine, I hope you get nourished by delicious food.” 

—Ji Yeong to the Great Dowager, Bon Appetit Your Majesty! (Netflix, 2025).

THESE WORDS LEFT an impression on me. In the series, Ji Yeong, the palace chef’s dishes are more than culinary creations—they are acts of care and offerings of memory. In another scene, Ji Yeong’s cooking evokes in the Great Dowager memories of her mother’s dishes from childhood—it reminded me that food is deeply personal and sentimental. It carries stories, belonging and identity.

I am a Malay from Balik Pulau. We are sometimes assumed to be the same as the Malays of Tanjong (George Town), the Jawi Peranakans or the Indian Muslims. In truth, our identities differ; this is no more evident than in what we eat. Just as dialects vary depending on geography, so too does the food we eat and how we prepare it. Each ingredient, each method of preparation carries traces of history and place. These subtle variations, which might be imperceptible to outsiders, distinguish our meals, our taste preferences and ultimately, our identity.

Read the full story

Sign up now for FREE to access all articles.

Register
Already have an account? Sign in
Great! Next, complete checkout for full access to Penang Monthly.
Welcome back! You've successfully signed in.
You've successfully subscribed to Penang Monthly.
Success! Your account is fully activated, you now have access to all content.
Success! Your billing info has been updated.
Your billing was not updated.