Singapore is famous for its compulsively clean streets, rigid laws and structured way of living – even the idea of fun is clean and controlled. It is cosmopolitan, glamorous and ditzy, minus the freedom. But like any other big city, Singapore too breathes secrets that it does not easily divulge to outsiders.
“If you are interested, I will bring you around,” my gay Singaporean friend told me. It sounded like an open invitation for something naughty. I grabbed at the chance to discover another facet of this iron city and headed out for a night into unchartered waters.
Located in the vicinity of Chinatown and Tanjong Pagar, Neil Road during the day reminds me of George Town – the area is filled with unassuming old shophouses fashioned after British colonial architecture. A testament to antiquated European architecture, Jinrikisha Station (which now belongs to Jackie Chan) can still be seen today at the junction of Neil Road and Tanjong Pagar Road. Stocked with history, 89 Neil Road (known as the Eng Aun Tong Building) was where local health staple Tiger Balm was manufactured. In the 1890s, the same edifice was the site of a millionaire’s club. Lee Kuan Yew’s grandfather lived in No. 147. Quaint and bustling, it looks every bit as picturesque as one would imagine.
