Penang’s street food is top notch – no arguing about that. But the work that goes into making these delightful dishes is often backbreaking: it is a labour of blood, sweat and – if you’re in the business of frying stuff, tears as well.
“It’s physically and mentally exhausting, it really is,” says Tan Chong Kim, owner of Penang’s most famous cendol stall, the Penang Road Famous Teochew Chendul. Early mornings are common for hawkers everywhere, and Tan is no exception. He typically wakes up at around 4am, and shortly after having breakfast, begins the long and tedious process of preparing the cendol to be sold that day.
